The
reoccurring fashion trends of the Nineteen-Seventies.
For this essay I am
planning to research the reoccurring fashion trends of the Nineteen-Seventies
and how they have been developed as time has progressed. This will require me
to spend a great deal of time researching the particular colours, items and silhouettes
that have been increasingly popular over time, and how designers have
incorporated these into their contemporary designs as opposed to the historic
designs of Vivienne Westwood, Barbara Hulanicki (who established Biba) and Diane
von Furstenberg. I will use all of this information as a starting point and
theme for my Final Major Project which will have a focus on seventies trends.
With all the information I gather I intend to update this popular trend further
to create a unique, current and innovative outfit.
There were three established trends running through this particular
decade. Starting with the early seventies, the hippie chic look was carried over
from the late nineteen-sixties. This specific look was very free flowing and
non-constricting, consisting of baggy tops normally with long sleeves which
were narrow at the shoulder and began to get wider toward the wrist, this was
named the Bell Sleeve top. Many of these designs would have been made with a
material that would drape well in neutral/earthy colours like copper, rust and
beige. Floral patterns were often seen in this type of clothing as well as
surface pattern that included a more vibrant, psychedelic colours and patterns.
Denim was also heavily associated with this particular trend. Designers like
Missoni and Thea Porter set the decade in motion and created designs that we
still see today in contemporary fashion.
(Left) Ritchie, R. (2011) The origins of Missoni’s famous Chevron stripes. Available at: http://ecosalon.com/chevron-trend-missoni-heritage-39/
(Accessed: 11 February 2016).
(Right) Stylists:
Bags 1970s ( history of fashion ) (2011) Available at:
http://fashionmanisfesto.blogspot.com.au/2011/01/bags-1970s-history-of-fashion.html
(Accessed: 11 February 2016)
The next trend began
to become more apparent in the mid seventies and had more of a tailored style
to it. Pastel colours were very in, as were symmetrical patterns and
pinstripes. Particular items such as tailored trousers and Yves Saint Laurent Le
Smoking blazers were widely popular and items like these are still very popular
now-a-days when looking at office wear for women.
faith, I. (2011) Fashion
daze. Available at: http://myfashiondaze.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/le-smoking-jacket-yves-saint-laurent.html
(Accessed: 11 February 2016).
In the late 1970s bright colours were back with the start of
the disco look. Bands such as ABBA were style icons for many people, as well as
glam rockers like David Bowie. Spandex and sequins, hot pants and sheer blouses
were all in fashion. Platform shoes were also extremely popular towards the end
of the decade. Shops Biba and Granny Takes a Trip were key in supplying the
disco/ glam look of the late 1970s.
Gladstone, I. (2016) David Bowie: His iconic style through the years | the Gentlemans
journal | the latest in style and grooming, food and drink, business,
lifestyle, culture, sports, restaurants, nightlife, travel and power.
Available at:
http://www.thegentlemansjournal.com/david-bowie-style-through-the-years/
(Accessed: 11 February 2016).
"We're living in a generation and a moment in fashion
where you see a lot of nostalgia" – designer Jonathan Anderson. (Weir, L.
(2014) Return to retro.
Available at:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/2015-spring-summer/return-to-retro
(Accessed: 11 February 2016). This statement from Jonathan Anderson was made in
regards to the nineteen-seventies and I believe it to be very true in current
fashion and in my opinion a lot of fashion since the turn of the millennium. It
wasn’t really until the 21st century that repetition in trends
started to become more noticeable. During the 20th century, I think
that it is easier to define each of the decades with a specific trend/style,
something I do not believe will be as easy to do with the 21st
century in years to come, as many trends have been repeated and merged to
create new styles. It wasn’t until the nineteen sixties that women began to
have more freedom with what they were able to wear. This continued through the
next three decades until nostalgia hit in 2000 and designers wanted to relive
the freedom and innovation of garments that had already been created but with a
modern spin to make the pieces different and popular with the people.
Seventies styles started to crop up in 2002 in the
Spring/Summer collection of Yves Saint Laurent’s reflecting the late sixties,
early seventies ‘Le Smoking’ blazers by the same designer. The smart, tailored
and fitted blazer had come back into fashion with a more modern twist as they
were paired with fitted trousers as opposed to flares. Styled with blouses with
neck ties, a style commonly associated with the seventies, to create a more
feminine and high fashion version of what had already been before. This look
that had originated in this decade is now widely seen in everyday office wear
for women. Trouser suits are more commonly worn as an office wear option now than
perhaps a skirt.
Show (2001)
Available at:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2002/couture/yves-saint-laurent/full-length-photos/gallery/59879
(Accessed: 12 February 2016).
In the 2011 Vogue Spring/ summer catwalk, designers Marc
Jacobs and Christopher Kane were seen reviving trends from the
nineteen-seventies. Marc Jacobs hit the catwalk with a collection which heavily
resembled the earthy, rust, tangerine shades that was a regularly seen in the
early seventies. Jacobs also revived the all in one/ jumpsuit which had been a
popular item throughout the seventies with similarities with the wide leg. Also
seen in this collection were more of a tailored style with the fitted trousers
and A line coats. A lot of this collection was heavily reliant on bright, solid
colour. However, the surface pattern that can be seen in some of the pieces
reminds me of the pattern repetitions seen in some of the more psychedelic
pieces directly from the nineteen-seventies. Even the models were styled with
crimped hair to fit the decade, this collection reflects the nostalgia Jacobs
was clearly feeling whilst he was designing. Marc Jacobs has updated this look
in a very clever way by creating more figure conscious, tailored and
contemporary garments that are still recognisable as being from the seventies.
(left) Show (2010)
Available at:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2011/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/full-length-photos/gallery/518816
(Accessed: 12 February 2016).
(middle) Show (2010)
Available at:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2011/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/full-length-photos/gallery/518821
(Accessed: 12 February 2016).
(right) Show (2010)
Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2011/ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs/full-length-photos/gallery/518826
(Accessed: 12 February 2016).
Next to remind us of the decade during that specific year
was Christopher Kane. Like Jacobs, Kane was seen to take inspiration from
popular, pastel colours from the mid seventies. Also, a few of the pieces
contained floral print and many were matching dresses and blazers which were
similar to the matching trouser and jacket combo seen frequently in seventies
trends. Kane has updated this look by creating more of a modern, high fashion
silhouette and shoes but still incorporating the pastel colours associated with
this particular part of the decade. The shoes seen in the image below for this
collection remind me of the seventies platform shoes. Many of this style shoe
from the seventies were wedged heels with a closed toe but not all, as many
were also block heels with an open toe. Kane has updated this style by creating
a tie feature around the foot to add an intricate and unique detail to the
outfit.
(Left) Show (2010)
Available at:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2011/ready-to-wear/christopher-kane/full-length-photos/gallery/529773
(Accessed: 12 February 2016).
(Middle) Show (2010)
Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2011/ready-to-wear/christopher-kane/close-up-photos/gallery/530057
(Accessed: 12 February 2016).
(Right) Show (2010)
Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2011/ready-to-wear/christopher-kane/full-length-photos/gallery/529765
(Accessed: 12 February 2016).
Seventies fashion had also noticeably reoccurred in Louis
Vuitton’s 2014 Autumn/Winter collection. He had also used the same earthy colours
and floral print seen in the seventies. Vuitton updated this style by creating
more body conscious designs and shapes as well as more modern necklines. In
2015, Valentino’s collections reflected this similar style again with wide leg
trousers reminiscent of the seventies but updated in the sense that they were
not full length trousers they were shortened to shin length, Culottes, a
contemporary trend. The print on many of the garments reminded me of the hippie
chic style evocative of the nineteen-seventies. Pairing these outfits with the gladiator
sandals that tie around the calf creates an edgy, high fashion addition to all
of the looks in his collection.
(left) Show (no
date) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/valentino/full-length-photos/gallery/1267805
(Accessed: 18 February 2016).
(right) Show (no
date) Available at:
http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/valentino/full-length-photos/gallery/1267763
(Accessed: 18 February 2016).
In another quite recent collection, 2015 spring/summer by
Saint Laurent the classic nineteen-seventies is visible once again but in a
more subtle way. I can notice that the tailored jackets resemble that which is
seen in the seventies, as well as the tan and earthy colours on the jacket seen
in the left hand photograph. There is also a flower print on the top to the
left which does remind me of floral prints from the decade but with more of a
subtle colour palette. The neck ties are also very reminiscent of the seventies
along with the hot pants in the right side picture that were popular along with
the mini skirt toward the end of the sixties, early seventies. These looks have
been made more contemporary by how they are styled including the belts with the
circular detail to give these outfits more shape, something which is associated
very much with fashion today.
(left) Show (2014)
Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/saint-laurent/close-up-photos/gallery/1266205
(Accessed: 18 February 2016).
(right) Show (2014)
Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/saint-laurent/full-length-photos/gallery/1266231
(Accessed: 18 February 2016).
The nineteen seventies are known not only for the styles of
clothing created but also the different fabrics that were used. Although Denim
did not originate in the seventies it is a noticeable symbol of the decade.
“Think of the 70’s flares
with platform shoes, everyone today remembers the 70’s fashion for this, even if like myself, you were not even
born then!” - Lorna (2010) The history of the wonderful fabric, Denim!
Available at:
http://www.denimblog.com/2010/02/the-history-of-the-wonderful-fabric-denim/
(Accessed: 25 February 2016). Jean cloth has been produced through weaving
since the 17th century, used for a manner of different things,
usually garments and upholstery. Denim jeans are quite possibly one of the most
common types of garment made out of this and similar materials. In the 18th
century jean cloth was made entirely of cotton. The difference between the two
is not that well known; jean was woven using two threads of the same colour
whereas denim was made by weaving one coloured thread with a white one. Many
new fabrics hit the streets in a bid to spontaneously start new trends; velvet,
suede, spandex, leather and satin were just a few. Cotton had become a must
have item for many people across the world, as well as newer synthetic fabrics
like polyester and nylon which were extremely popular during this time and
these fibres were easy to wash and print onto, something seen a lot with all of
the psychedelic surface patterns favoured at this time.
To conclude, I think
it is really interesting how the seventies trends have evolved over the years. In
recent times silhouettes have become more body conscious and colours more
subtle creating a developed and updated nineteen seventies style, jackets and
trousers in particular have become more tailored and flattering. I also would
like to update this style when designing for the final major project but in a
way that is innovative and has not already been done by hundreds of pervious
designers. I will be looking at juxtaposing fabrics associated with the
seventies with fabrics common to the current decade to create a unique layering
and patchwork effect, something which I have not ever come across before. After
researching for this essay I have discovered just how much seventies fashion
has reoccurred and given me a platform of research for my final major project.
I have been able to explore recent collections by contemporary designers that
have used the seventies as inspiration as well as being able to have clarity on
what styles were most popular during that decade.
During the final major project I would like to explore
materials that were associated with this time such as; denim, suede, velvet
etc. I hope to experiment with them to explore their properties, as well as
looking at more delicate fabrics and seeing how the two work and look together,
which I believe could ultimately lead to an innovative and unique final piece.
I would like to explore creating different shapes/ silhouettes, some that were
popular during the seventies e.g. fitted trousers and blazers as well as
exploring a more contemporary silhouette. Ultimately I intend to create a
modern silhouette as opposed to one recognisable from the seventies so that I
am not regressing back to what has already been covered in previous years.
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